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To Bee or not to Bee Sox by LynnH
This sock is a quick knit and a lot of fun! Use yellow and black with a striped foot for a Bee look, or use a variegated yarn for the main color with a solid foot, for a more sophisticated look. Because all the patterns are created using slipped stitches rather than fair-isle stranding, this pattern can easily be completed in two days. I started my first adult-sized sock at 8pm one day and finished it at 5:30pm the next, with plenty of other tasks besides knitting during that period of time. As always, I've made the pattern easy to adjust to fit any size foot. The example given is for approximately a woman's medium size.
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 Copyright, Lynn DT Hershberger 2005 |
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Gauge: 7.5 stitches per inch (Stockinette). Again, you can adjust gauge, using knit to fit instructions.
Needle Size: Start swatching your stranded knitting on US 2/ 2.75mm needles, adjusting for your own personal gauge. Knit the rib (and perhaps the foot, adjusting for the gauge change) in a needle 1 size smaller. Yarn: For Bee colorway: skein measuring at least 175 M/ 191 Yd of Black and slightly less of yellow. For Variegated: at least 300 M/ 325 Yd of variegated and at least 75 M/ 80 Yd of contrasting solid. This yarn would classify as fat fingering weight or thin sport weight. Spinners, the yarns I used were about 14 wraps per inch Yarn Hint: If you choose a variegated yarn, choose a solid that is not a color in the variegated colorway. The color contrast will be much more distinct if you do. Planning Your SizeIf you have the same gauge as me, and want a woman's medium, you can skip this. However you may wish to adjust the pattern to another gauge or foot size, in which case, read on!Use the ball-of-foot measurement (or ankle measurement for cuff if they are significantly different) times the number of stitches per inch in your gauge. Round to a multiple of 4 and then subtract 4 for the rib stitch count, which makes the rib fit snugly. When we start the cuff, you will increase by 4 or 8 stitches to a multiple of 8, to accommodate the cuff patterning. Example: My cuff stitch count is 56. I found that number by taking 8" which is my ankle circumference measurement, times 7.5 sts/inch, coming up with 60 sts. This was my ballpark cuff stitch count. However, this pattern has a rib stitch repeat of four stitches, and a cuff stitch repeat of 8 stitches. I divided 60 by 4 and got 15 (since it was an even number I didn't need to round further… you may need to round to an even number), and then I subtracted 4 stitches for 14 repeats x 4 stitches per repeat. This made 56 stitches for the rib. We will want to increase by at least 4 stitches when we end the rib and begin the cuff. Round up to a number divisible by 8. In my case, I rounded up to 60 stitches. For this pattern, I did not decrease by 10%-20% for a snug fit. If you like to do that, figure in the decreased number of stitches before rounding to the multiples of 4 and 8. CAST ONCast on 56 stitches (or other multiple of 4 - see above) in Contrast Color (CC/Black), using your favorite method. Distribute onto 3 or 4 smaller needles (size US 1 or 1-1/2), so that each needle has a multiple of 4 stitches. Join in a ring, being careful not to twist stitches around needles.RIBRow 1: K3P1 in CCRow 2: K all stitches in CC. This prevents the purl stitches from peeking yellow through the rib when you change color. It will stretch fine, trust me. (If you sometimes turn down your rib/cuffs, skip this step as it looks great on the right side but is obvious on the wrong side.) Rows 3-11: K3P1 in Main Color (MC/Yellow or Variegated) circularly on the smaller needles for (until rib measures 1-1/4 inches). CUFFSwitch to (larger) needles you used for your stockinette gauge. Hint: Always pick up new colored yarn from the right/underneath, dropping old color above and to the left.Purl Ridge:Row 1: K entire row in CC.Rows 2 & 3: P entire row in CC. Row 4: K entire row in CC. Tiny Bee Band:Rows 5, 6 & 7: *K3 MC, Slip 1 (as if to purl)* Repeat to end. Row 8: K even in CCRows 9, 10 & 11: K1 MC, *Slip 1 (as if to purl), K3 MC, * Repeat (ends with K2MC). Row 12: Repeat Row 8 Rows 13, 14, & 15: Repeat Rows 5-7. Row 16: Repeat Row 8 Bubbly-Bee Bands:Rows 17-22 (six rows): *Slip 2 (as if to purl), K6 MC* Repeat to end.Row 23: K even in CC Row 24-29 (six rows): K4 MC, *Slip 2 (as if to purl), K6 MC* Repeat (ends with K2MC). Row 30: K even in CC Rows 31-36: Repeat rows 17-22 Rows 37 & 38: K even in CC (two rounds total). Rows 39-44: Repeat rows 24-29. Rows 45 & 46: K even in CC (two rounds total). Rows 47-52: Repeat rows 17-22 Rows 53-55: K even in CC (THREE rounds total). Rows 56-61: Repeat rows 24-29. Final Purl Ridge:Row 62-64: Repeat cuff rows 1-3.Row 65: Knit all stitches in CC. If you wish to decrease the number of stitches for the foot, you can decrease evenly on this final knit row. I found that my cuff was a bit loose, so I decreased by 4 stitches, ending with a stitch count of 56. LynnH NO-PURL HEEL: FLAPRe-distribute stitches so that half your pattern stitches (I have 28 after decreasing on Row 65) are on needle #1. This will become your heel flap, no breaking of CC yarn required. Break Main Color yarn only.This heel is designed for an even number of stitches. Place remaining stitches on needles or waste yarn to hold until gusset and instep are worked.
Notes:
Row 2: (Turn sock around, to knit heel flap flat.) With yarn in front, Slip 1, pass yarn to back, Knit remaining stitches (don't purl). Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have a heel flap measuring 2-1/4" to 3", depending on the height of your own heel/instep. (It should measure just longer than the height from floor to the indentation between your heel and ankle at the back of your foot). End with a knit (no slip) even-numbered row. I had 30 rows. Note: This heel stitch is compressed vertically (although stretchy) and may require more rows than standard heel stitch. Also, the Dutch heel I am using can need a bit more height than a standard round/half-handkerchief heel. Don't skimp on heel flap height. I typically make mine 1/8" shorter than the measurement from the floor to the indent above my heel. LynnH NO-PURL HEEL: TURNNotes:
Row1 (right side): With yarn in front, Slip 1, move yarn to back, *K1, Sl 1* until you are 3 sts past marker (last stitch should be a slip), K2tog, turn sock physically around so that the inside faces TOWARD you. You should not have finished all the stitches in the row. Knit-to-fit note: If you are making a man's extra-large sock, you may choose to knit 5 sts past marker... but this will create a very wide heel. Conversely, if you have a very narrow heel or are making a baby sock, you might try 1 stitch past center (the Dutch heel makes a band which appears 2 stitches wider than the number of knit stitches before turning, and the band sits entirely underneath your heel when worn). If you use only 1 stitch past center, you will probably need to make your heel flap a few rows longer than usual, to adjust for the flap pulling under your foot more.
Row 2 (inside): With yarn in front, Sl 1, move yarn to back, Knit to 3 sts past marker (in other words, K6 sts), SSK, turn.
GUSSET STITCH PICK-UP:Continue using Contrast Color. You can break yarn if you prefer, but my instructions will include a method for carrying unused yarn so you have fewer ends to finish when you are done.Row 1: With CC in front, Knit 1 move yarn to back, continuing to knit across half the total heel stitches (4 stitches on this needle in my case), which will become your final needle. Start a new needle (#1). With CC, knit across the rest of heel flap (4 more stitches). Continuing with same needle, pick up stitches from the side of the heel flap (1 stitch in every chain stitch on the edge), plus pick up one stitch in the gusset corner. For me, I had 30 rows so I picked up 15 plus 1 and got 16 total picked-up stitches, ending up with 20 sts on needle #1. Knit even in CC across instep, using 1 or 2 needles to hold instep stitches, as you prefer. (I had 28 stitches on my instep needle.) With final needle, pick up and knit one stitch in the gusset corner and then continue to pick up the same number of stitches from the side of the heel flap as on the first needle. Continuing with the same needle, knit the few stitches you started with (I have 4) onto this final needle. If you are using my stitch count, it should now be 68 stitches (i.e., 20,28,20). GUSSET DECREASE:Row 1: (I consider Row 1 to be the row where you picked up the gusset stitches, as it makes counting rows easier while you decrease.)Row 2: (All sts in CC) Needle #1: Knit until the last 3 stitches, K2 tog, K1. Instep Needle(s): K all stitches. Final Needle: K1, SSK, Knit even to end of round. Row 3: Change to MC. Knit even entire round. Row 4: With MC, repeat decrease Row 2. Hint: After knitting Row 4, dangle sock by both yarns and rotate sock one full turn to snug unused CC while not in use. (If you prefer, you can instead drop the working yarn to the left and pick up the "spare" yarn color from the bottom to the right, then repeat dropping spare yarn and grab the working yarn from the bottom to the right.) When you pick up MC to knit again, the CC should be wrapped around it once at the base where it connects to the sock. Pull unused color gently out of the way and continue knitting with your working yarn.
Rows 5, 7, & 9: With CC, repeat knit-even Row 3.
From here on, *Knit 6 rows CC, Knit 2 rows MC* decreasing every other row as above until total stitches equal your desired number of stitches for the foot. Continue to rotate sock/twist yarns together after each Row 3 or Row 4. Knit-to-fit note: My final foot stitch count goal is 52. I found that number by taking 8" which is my ball of foot measurement, times 7.5 sts/inch, coming up with 60 sts. Then I subtracted 10% for snugger fit on the foot, coming up with 54. It will be easier to decrease for the toe if you have a multiple of 4 stitches, and it is necessary to have an even number of stitches in any case, so round up/down as you deem necessary. I rounded down to 52. Remember that I had 28 stitches on the instep, so 52 - 28 = 24 stitches on sole, 12 on needle #1 and 12 on your final needle. When you reach your stitch count goal, transfer stitches between needles as necessary. Because you are working with fewer stitches than for the cuff, it will be a new configuration (perhaps 13, 26, 13). Right now it is only important that the number of stitches on the top instep and the sole needles are equal… it does not matter if the number on each needle is divisible by 4. FOOT:Continue in 8-row pattern below, until you reach 1-3/4" to 2" from your desired foot length:
Knit 6 rows CC
Knit 2 rows MC TOE:Switch to Contrast Color. If you choose to use reinforcing thread, add it now.Make sure you have divided stitches in half, with the same number on instep needle(s) and on "sole of foot needles." In my case, I have 26 on top of foot (one needle, but you could choose 2) and 26 on sole, split between 2 needles.
Row 1: a) Starting at middle of heel, Knit until 3 stitches from end of needle. K2tog, K1. b) On instep needle(s) K1, SSK, Knit until 3 stitches from end of instep, K2tog, K1. c) On final needle, K1, SSK, Knit to end of round.
Repeat these two rows 5 more times, or until you have decreased to about 26-30 stitches. Repeat Row 1 only until 4-12 stitches remain and length is appropriate for your foot. Consider using a smaller needle for the last 1-3 rows. Break yarn leaving a long tail (about 1 foot). Thread tail in blunt needle and work in a loop through remaining stitches, twice (this fills in the loops more firmly, for better wear). Remove knitting needles and pull end snug. Work end through to inside of sock with blunt needle, and finish all ends. Checks and correspondence to: ColorJoy by LynnH, PO Box 26261, Lansing, MI 48909-6261 USA |
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